Rhubarb Summer
by Barbara O’Neal
My grandmother has been haunting me a little the past couple of weeks. I can almost smell her perfume some days. A couple of days ago, I even found myself taking down an old cookbook she gave me when I married, just so I could look at her handwriting.
Then I realized that I’m starting to garden, puttering around with plans and making lists of companion plantings I want to try. We have a big project underway this year, and I’m very happy about it.
My grandmother, Madoline, was not a gardener. In fact, she insisted that she could not keep anything alive, and in terms of houseplants, that would be absolute fact. (She also claimed not to sew, which was probably self-defense in her generation.)
So I don’t know what possessed her to grow a garden the summer I was twelve. Maybe it was the slave labor available in me and my three siblings, marooned in the little town of Sedalia during the week while my mother worked. My grandmother was living in a rented farmhouse with an acre or so of land around it, and she got it into her head to plant a garden.
And not just any garden. It was enormous, with rows and rows of corn and squash and tomatoes and lesser vegetables that have escaped my memory. We were forced to help weed and water, me more than the others because I was the oldest and also liked my grandmother more than almost anyone on the planet, so more weekends than not, I stayed over. Our family had just moved to a new house in a new neighborhood, and I was lonely there. Much more fun to read endlessly at my grandmother’s house, and hope for an appearance of my uncle Tex, seven years older than me, glamorous and wild and impossibly handsome. He wrecked a motorcycle at one point that summer, broke his arm and skinned the flesh off several other spots, so was laid up on the couch at his mother’s house for a few days. I was in heaven, fetching him glasses of tea and turning the channel when he wanted me to.
Anyway, we gardened, my grandmother and I. The corn sprouted high, and the tomatoes started putting out fruit. Meanwhile, rhubarb grew to the size of small trucks, and my grandmother, who really didn’t can or even freeze food was left with cooking it into every variation of rhurbarb treat you could possibly name. Rhubarb and strawberry crumble. Rhubarb and apple crisp. Rhubarb cookies and rhubarb pie and rhubarb stew.
Before that summer I kinda liked rhubarb. It has those big shapely leaves and in my child’s mind, it was amazing that something just grew like a weed and you could just eat it for heaven’s sake! When it’s raw, it has a sharp, sour bite like pickles and we loved plucking it to pucker our mouths.
But have you ever smelled rhubarb cooking?
It has been many, many years, but I can still put myself at the top of the stairs in that old house and feel surrounded and smothered by the stench of rhubarb baking. It was an odor with depth and power and weight, like a hundred sweaty shirts, like forty-three socks left damp in a locker room. It almost had a color, a sickly acid yellow green that stained the air and stuck to my skin and was utterly inescapable.
Until I retreated to the garden and the heavenly relief of loamy earth and tomato leaves baking in the sun. My grandmother's orange cat, Goldy, who adopted her even though she didn’t like cats, wound around my ankles and stalked bugs through the corn. Whatever time of day it was, I liked the garden better than the smell of the house.
And that’s when I fell in love with gardens, growing things. I can’t remember how successful we were. I’m pretty sure we harvested corn and squash (who could not harvest squash?) and maybe some other things. I remember day-dreaming about the fallow side yard, another half acre that could be planted with something or another. Maybe flowers, I thought, because my mother let me plant some bachelor buttons at the new house and they were pretty.
My grandmother never planted another garden again, but that lone garden of hers provided me with a rich setting for a lost pregnant teen in How to Bake a Perfect Life, when Ramona and her aunt Poppy live in that very house in Sedalia and tend that very garden. Ramona shared a kiss with a boy she had a kiss on, but I never did.
That accidental garden turned me into a gardener for life. I’m not particularly talented, but there is something so soft and luscious and rewarding about the alchemy of earth and sun and rain, even hail. At the end of a long day at the computer, my head is weary of words and it’s a relief to wander into the garden and admire a dahlia, shoot a photo of a squash blossom, pluck some weeds. It’s color and shape and mood, no words at all. Novels also take a long time to grow and harvest, so there is a deep satisfaction in planting a seed and watching it sprout, then bear fruit. Voila!
The one thing I have never done, ever, since that summer is eat so much as one mouthful of rhubarb. This grieves my beloved very much, since he is English and they serve rhubarb all over the place there. If you are like he is, you might like this recipe for Strawberry-Rhubarb Crumble I tracked down for you, by Smitten Kitchen, whose photos are so gorgeous that she makes even me want to try it, though my beloved would say there is nowhere near enough crumble on that dish.
I also understand that Nancy M has the All Time Best Rhubarb Pie Recipe in the world, her own mother's, so perhaps she will share that, too.
Are you a fan of rhubarb? Gardens? What makes you think of your grandmother?